UPDATE! RetroRGB has some very important info regarding the AES 3.6 board, please check out Bobs page and consider doing the fixes there! Also check out this amazing post by FirebrandX for some great info. Both of which supersede this post!
There’s already a few pages on the web that detail the various different versions of the AES and their RGB output quality – here’s just one. I’m in the UK so lucky enough to have TVs with an RGB Scart socket, so of course wanted to use RGB for the NeoGeo.
The motherboard in these photos is a late one – a NEO-AES3-6, and, to be honest – when I tried it unmodded using an RGB lead on my portable TV it didn’t look too bad. But when I tried it on an a larger LCD, it did look awful, with terrible vertical lines, or jailbars.
After I contacted MKL on the Neo-Geo forums he pointed me to one of his posts with info showing that cutting 3 traces on the underside of the motherboard is all that’s needed, a lot easier than performing the RGB bypass :-) It’s brilliant! NO SOLDERING REQUIRED, JUST SOME SIMPLE CUTS. So, if your motherboard is the same version, try this before the RGB bypass mod.
Here is the original post with some photos, this page is just my photos showing the same thing really.
The first photo below shows the RGB output BEFORE doing any modification. The second photo is AFTER with absolutely no vertical stripes down the screen (although, not that easy to photograph, there must be a knack to this which I haven’t discovered yet)
The area you need to work in is on the underside of the motherboard, directly underneath the crystal (the cause of the problem), it’s near the AV socket and the Sony CXA1145P video encoder.
Here’s what you need to cut, I cut both sides of the traces – this is probably unnecessary and I should have experimented, but cutting both sides definitely did the trick. The image quality was even better than the RGB Bypass I previously tried.
It really is as simple as that, a big thanks to MKL for discovering the information and sharing it with everyone.