SNES Phat 1 Chip Bad_Ad84 SuperCIC uIGR Kit

Just a quick bit of info on installing Bad_Ad84’s SuperCIC/uIGR kit on the regular sized (phat) 1chip SNES model.  The photos on this page are from a Japanese Super Famicom which of course is NTSC.

As a habit I always switch on a SNES after I’ve removed the power lead to discharge it, otherwise you risk blowing a fuse (again – Bad_Ad84 sells replacements!).

Rather than trying to solder onto the points of the old CIC lockout chip, Bad_Ad84 supplied a photo with alternative points to make it a lot easier and tidier to install (click it for the full size to see it without any bits cropped off).

1 Chip SNES CIC Points

Preparing the Motherboard


I’m sure I read that this one was optional and only needed it you want the correct PAL/NTSC Colour option when not using RGB.  Anyway, whilst you’re doing all this, you may as well do it anyway.

According to the original photo, this method is for NTSC models only – ignore the black wires – these are for an RGB bypass mod.  Take a look at the pads joined together labelled SCLN.

I took a new scalpel blade and put two small cuts – one either side of the link between the two pads, it’s then easy to remove the small link.

I think if you’re performing this on a PAL console then lift leg 8 of the S-RGB chip (as per my Mini/Jnr guide).  Unless a PAL console has SCLP linked up – I don’t know – I’ve not seen one!

Timing Crystal/Oscillator

Next up is the oscillator, labelled X1.  You’re removing this completely, the mod replaces it and switches between two different crystals depending on which video mode is selected.

Depending on what equipment you have, you could use a desolder pump/desoldering braid/desoldering iron to remove the solder from the legs of the oscillator, you may need to add some fresh solder to it first to make it easier to remove.

Original CIC

Now the old CIC chip.  You can either remove it completely, or lift legs 1, 2, 8, 10 and 11.  This section is lifted straight from my Mini guide, but it shouldn’t make any difference!

Extra Info Show

I usually start with Leg 1, heat up the solder and then use a scalpel blade to lift the leg up and bend it back on itself. Once leg 1 is done, it gives you easier access to Leg 2. Repeat for 10 and 11.

Don’t forget leg 8, you can either do leg 9 and then 8 or simply skip straight to it!

Of course, it doesn’t really matter if you break the legs off!

Old CIC legs lifted.

Finally, and the most difficult part, lifting leg 111 of the CPU.  Leg 120 is clearly labelled so count backwards from that (the white dots printed on the board are markers placed 5 legs apart if that helps).

I usually heat the leg near where it comes out of the chip, and then use a scalpel blade to lift the leg by pressing it in-between the leg and the board at the other end of the leg, and pulling it up. Or, heat the pad where the leg joins the board, and then with a scalpel blade pushed in-between leg 111 and an adjacent leg, I push the leg sideways and twist the blade to lift the leg slightly.

Practice on something else first if you are unsure about this at all!

Prepping the SuperCIC Mod Board

It’s obvious looking at the board which points you’ll be soldering onto – all the points are labelled (PAD, LED, CIC etc).  At the time of me performing this mod the D4 point is unused.

You should be able to see that I’ve melted a drop of solder onto each of the points.

Installing the Board

I’ve placed the board here so that it’s close to some of the CIC points and doesn’t interfer with the case at all.


Nice and easy this one, wire goes from CIC8 to the bottom left leg of the Reset Button


Earlier on we removed the Timing Crystal, now it’s time to solder a wire to one of the points linked to where the old one was.

If you look at the over view photo that Bad_Ad84 supplied at the beginning of this page, there’s two large points you can solder onto which are nice and easy due to their size.  I thought I’d try the smaller point which is closer to SuperCIC board.

Roughly in the middle of this photo is a group of Via’s (small holes with solder points that link one side of the board with the other).

You should be able to spot I’ve added a small blob of solder to the middle one.

And now soldered the wire in place for it.


Another small solder point, this time look at the underside of the cart connector and look in the area above pin 55 and to the left of R52/R53 (all clearly labelled).

Compare the picture above with the picture below and you should see I’ve added a small amount of solder to the relevant pad.

And now the yellow wire links that pad to CIC10 on the SuperCIC board.


A nice easy one now!  CIC11 goes to Cartridge pin 25, which is labelled for you (I actually ended up counting back from Pin 31 because I wasn’t 100% sure which pin the label was referring to!).


Another easy one, goes to the left solder pad of C72, the red wire in this photo.


The green wire goes to Cart Pin 24.


The blue wire goes to .Cart Pin 55

Pad 2, 3, 4

The Yellow, White and Blue wires link up to the connector for the controller board.


Remember because I’m doing this on an NTSC model, I am using this alternative solder point that I prepared (the left pads of SCLN and SCLP are linked together so you can use either of them).


I soldered a the yellow wire to the CPU point on the SuperCIC board, and then routed it through a nearby hole on the main motherboard.

It comes out very close to leg 111 which we lifted up earlier.  I cut the wire to length, leaving some spare length so it was easier to work with, then used some wire strippers to prepare the wire.  You may find it easier to remove the wire from the board rather than trying to strip it in place.

I add a small amount of solder to the lifted leg and the wire…

…before soldering them together.  I forgotten to show it here, but I place a small piece of tape under the lifted leg to isolate it from the board, and also some tape on the wire securing it to the CPU chip.


I’ve created a separate guide for replacing the Power LED.

After experimenting, I’ve been using a 100 ohm resistor the Green, and 220 ohm for the Red LEDs, anything around those values will probably do, I just use those as it allows me to see the combined Orange colour a bit easier.

I solder the resistors to the pads marked on the SuperCIC board, and solder wires from the resistors to the relevant LED legs.

Correction – Bad_Ad84 has informed me that the LEDs are included on the board already!  No need to add to them like I have!

Before soldering the LED into the Controller Board, work out which leg is Red and which is Green.  The easy one is the middle leg – that’s GND.  I usually use a CR2032 battery between two of the legs to work it out.  Mark a leg so you remember which is which, or remember it by which leg is the shortest (Green when I was doing it).

And again, I’ve forgotten to photograph a step!  So I’ve pinched a photo from my regular SuperCIC guide showing how I install the LED in place.